Organic Drams

Half a dozen organic whiskies

For August's tasting, club member Rich had selected six whiskies on the theme of organic drams. Organic has become one of the key buzzwords in food and drink production, and whisky is no exception: we had a line-up of half a dozen drinks from distilleries using organic techniques.

Benromach Contrasts

We started with Benromach and their Contrasts: Organic expression, an 8-year-old. A Speyside distillery that is nevertheless known for its range of smoky single malts, we had before us an unpeated bottling matured in virgin American oak.

This was very nice both on the nose and the palate. Fruity was a key tasting note all round, with hints of banana and other tropical fruits. We liked it even more when Rich revealed the price tag of £47. This represented strong value, and the bottle was as a whole "surprisingly good". There are also some bottles of earlier versions of it around for cheaper if you look hard enough. It's 46%.

Nc'nean Organic

The second dram was from Nc'nean, a relatively new distillery from the west Highlands based on the coast across from Mull. They have based the philosophy of the whisky around the concept of 'slow' and we had their Nc'nean Organic expression in our glasses.

A mostly red wine cask aged 3-year-old, this was punchy on the nose. A little bit chocolatey too, and we got some ginger as well. A bit meh for some in the club, and a little harsh as befits a young whisky, but there was general agreement this stuff had some decent potential. It's £45 and is 46%.

Da Mhile

Next up we went to Wales and farm-based distillery Da Mhile. Also known for their organic cheese and a range of other spirits, Rich had dug out a bottle of organic single malt that was finished in first fill ex-Madeira casks. This was a new distillery on just about all of us - not often you can say that about something we try at the club.

This certainly had some sweetness as you'd expect from something that is on nodding terms with Madeira. There were those tropical notes again and dried banana again prominent. There were mixed reviews around the room, though. We agreed it was a little unusual, almost like a liqueur in a way. Some liked it, others less so, making it a bit of a marmite dram. It was again 46% but despite the novelty factor, no sign of anyone rushing out to buy it at £93.

Deanston PX

After a half-time break to fill up our beer glasses downstairs at the Britons Protection, the second half of the tasting began with a visit to the distillery perhaps most often associated with the 'organic' label, Deanston.

It has been producing organic whisky for a lot longer than most - more than two decades - and so we were able to have a rather older organic expression. The Deanston we had was a 17-year-old distilled back in 2002, and ultimately finished in PX sherry casks for the last three of those years.

This went down very well. Lots of club members really enjoyed it. Tasting notes included toasted marshmallows, and also a rich, lemony sort of flavour. It's 49.3% and cost £125.

Bruichladdich Organic

Bruichladdich, the Islay distillery, is another one known for putting a focus on organic products since its revival in the early 2000s. They have a vineyard-style belief in terroir, and this particular bottling - The Organic 2011 - was part of their barley provenance series.

Unusually unpeated, this had a big nose on it much like a wine. Satisfying on the palate, too. The central thought we had at the end of trying it was "luxurious". It's £75 and was 50%.

Hven Tyco's Star

The last of our organic drams was from Sweden. Not club favourites Mackmyra though, but instead a bottling from Hven, a distillery based on a tiny island between Sweden and Denmark. Named Tyco's Star in honour of the island's association with its observatory and all things stargazing, we had a medium peated no age statement bottling to try (it was billed only as "well matured" so it's not clear exactly how old it was).

An unusual one, the main tasting notes we got were leather and liqourice. Not bad, but coming after a couple of strong drams from top quality distilleries, it perhaps suffered a little by comparison. It was £52 for a 50cl bottle, and was 41.8%.

Which brought us to the dram of the night voting, and unusually it was a win for the night's opener, the Benromach. In second was the Deanston with the Bruichladdich third.

Thanks to Rich for picking out the drams, to all at the Britons for hosting us and to club members and those on the waiting list for attending another successful tasting.