Sherry January

 

The full line-up

Club chairman James started off the year for us with a selection of half a dozen sherried drams.

Decadent Drams 17yo

He aimed at six whiskies with full sherry maturation, although due to some slightly unclear labelling it ended up as five plus one that was a sherry finish. Three dry, three sweet, and five of the six were independently bottled.

The opening whisky was The Teuchter, a 17-year-old expression from Decadent Drams. Described as a modern Highland, James told us this was likely to be a Tomatin.

We got Christmas pudding and dark chocolate from this, some real classic sherry whisky flavours. It tasted fuller and stronger than you might have thought, and some thought it was a bit astringent. Liquorice came through as well. A solid sherry bomb of an opener, this was 46% and cost £65.

Tormore 10yo

Next a 10-year-old bottle of Tormore, a distillery now part of the Elixir empire created by the founders of the Whisky Exchange. This was a full maturation in cream sherry, although James confirmed this was not necessarily an old cask of Harvey's Bristol Cream.

There were pear drops and sherbet, definitely not as juicy as the opening whisky. There was some discussion in the group as to whether we were getting any of the creaminess. A dry, shorter finish. The nose and texture were very nice, but the taste wasn't quite as strong we didn't feel. Other tasting notes included hints of something floral, citrus peel and spice. This was 48% and we paid £55.

SMWS Mortlach

The Scotch Malt Whisky Society provided dram number three, an 18-year-old Mortlach. Much excitement in the room at the presentation of a dram from this distillery, often tough to get hold off at an affordable price. We paid £125 for this particular bottle, matured in oloroso sherry, and called Behold the Beast.

Ooft! This was certainliy chewy. Tannin on the finish. Very long, but maybe with a hint of bitterness in there too. Certainly very dry. Better with water, some in the room felt. It certainly was able to take water ok, as you might expect given the 54.3% ABV.

Clydebuilt 12yo

Half-time gave us a chance to refill our glasses downstairs at the Seven Oaks, and we were back for another sherried trio.

Clydebuilt was the brand name of whisky number four, and under the label it was probably a Benrinnes, bottled by the Ardgowan distillery. Aged in a dry manzanilla, coming in at a hefty 61.1%.

It didn't feel as strong as that, and the many flavours didn't get swamped by that strength. We got a maritime vibe with some sea salt, along with the creaminess of cream soda and ice cream. Some felt it took water well, while others said they thought a drop or two actually dulled the taste a bit too much. One last random tasting note: dolly mixtures! It cost £80.

Deanston 12yo

Dram five was the odd one out, a 12-year-old Deanston that was only finished in a moscatel port pipe rather than fully matured.

This was very unexpected on the palate. Oaky, a bit rough, with a hint of sandpaper. We also got some wood and candlewax. Actually on the sweet side as these things go, some were a bit on the fence about it. But on the other hand, this is a popular brand with many club members and at £55 for a 55.8% whisky, it was certainly affordable.

Glen Garioch 27yo

James has a particular feeling for Glen Garioch so that's where we were going for the sixth and final whisky. A 27-year-old bottled by Thompson Bros, at £195. But as James told us, "they don't often miss" and Glen Garioch arguably shines a bit better when bottled by an indie.

This was matured in a fino cask, and didn't have the colour we might have expected from such a long maturation. Nevertheless it's quite a delicate sherry, so even at this age it made some sense. The nose was superb although some felt the palate didn't quite deliver on it. The ABV on this was 49.3%.

Which brought us to the dram of the night voting. All except the Tormore got at least one vote, as ever a sign of strength in depth at any tasting.

But the clear winner was the SMWS Mortlach with 16, ahead of the Clydebuilt and Decadent Drams offerings in second and third.

Thanks to James for putting on such a great opening tasting of 2026, to all club members and guests for attending and to the Seven Oaks for hosting us once again.

Raiding The Club's Cellar

This month's line up

For the leap day tasting on February 29th, Martin went burrowing around club stocks and selected six bottles that have been sitting on the shelf for long enough. The extra part of the theme was that they were all from independent bottlers, too.

Glen Scotia 9yo

We started off in Campbeltown with a 9yo Glen Scotia, bottled for the Southport Whisky Club having been picked out for them by the distillery's master distiller. This unpeated expression had the sort of spicy, peppery notes that are a theme of Glen Scotia whiskies. Adding a bit of water changed the game, and brought out a real creaminess too. Indeed, we felt as though it needed a bit of water.

A nice, long finish and hints of apples and pears as well. Mostly people really enjoyed this in the room. It was a chunky old thing first off at 57.1% and was £58.

North Star Dalmunach

We went to Speyside next and a newer name on the whisky scene, Dalmunach. This began distillation in 2014 as Pernod Ricard's answer to Diageo's similarly big, shiny and new facility at Roseisle. The output mainly goes into the company's blends such as Chivas, so it's relatively rare to spot a bottling in the wild. The one we had was from independent bottler North Star. and was a 6yo fully matured in a ruby port cask.

That port maturation gave it a remarkable colour, almost like a glass of Ribena. It was big on the nose too with definite hints of cola, but on the palate arguably didn't even really taste much like whisky at all. Very spirity we felt, and more like a Cognac. Worth trying once but not everyone was convinced. It was 56.4% and cost £54.

Bunnahabhain 5yo

Off to Islay for dram number three and a Bunnahabhain. This was a 5yo, bottled by the legendary Cadenhead's as part of their club membership scheme.

This was spicy! Very nice, you wouldn't peg it for a young, cask strength whisky (it was 59.6%), and it was much more drinkable than that. It was a bit "angry with water" but at the same time had a smoky finish, and had an element of being light at the same time. We paid £50 for this.

After a break for half-time and a chance to recharge our glasses downstairs at the bar of the Britons Protection, it was on to the second part of the tasting and dram number four.

Glentauchers 20yo

We were back to Speyside for a Glentauchers, bottled by Bartels, known for their brands such as Highland Laird. At 20 years old we had high hopes for this one, Glentauchers being a favourite distillery of many club members, so much so that we even did one of our club bottlings of the stuff.

This was subtle and creamy at first, and for some it was maybe even - whisper it, softly - a little bit plain. But others thought it absolutely superb. As one member commented "if you don't like that, what on earth are you doing here?". So the room in general certainly gave it two thumbs up. It was 53.2% and cost us £62,

Linkwood 13yo

For number five we went to another distillery normally used in blends, this was a 13yo Linkwood, owned by Diageo and more often tasted as part of Johnnie Walker. We had a bottling from Thompson Bros, run by brothers Philip and Simon who are based in Dornoch in the Highlands, where they run their bottling brand along with a micro-distillery and bar.

This smelt terrific, like cream soda. It was light and floral and very drinkable. Others felt it had a little bit of artificial sweetener about it, almost reminiscent of aspartame. This cost £71.50 and was 54.6%.

Glen Elgin 11yo

For the sixth and final dram of the evening, we stayed in Speyside once again for Glen Elgin and a bottling from James Eadie, an old brand that was revived by the family in 2015. 

We had an 11yo matured in a first fill Madeira hogshead. It was 59.1% but if anything tasted even stronger. A bit spicy at the back, and certainly worked well with water. The finish lasted and lasted, and didn't fade. This cost £60.

Which brought us to the dram of the night voting. All the whiskies got at least one vote, a sign of a tasting of great strength in depth. But the clear winner was the Glentauchers, dram four, which picked up no fewer than 19 votes. Tied for second were drams one and three, the Glen Scotia and Bunnahabhain,

Thanks to Martin for putting on such a great tasting, all club members and those from the waiting list for joining us, and to the Britons for hosting us once again.